Studying at el Instituto

It's Wednesday already and I've been in Mexico for a week. Been at el Instituto since Monday morning.
I have classes 9am until 12 with two 10 min breaks and then we move out onto the patio for an hour's conversation with our Tutor. There are 5 of us students in the class so it's very intimate. I return to las Mariposas - a nice 10 minute walk - at 1pm for something light for lunch. Yoghurt and fruit with honey or a sincronizada (2 small tortillas filled with oaxacan cheese, sliced tomatoes and avocado toasted in a pan).
Return to school at 3pm for an hour's intercambio with a lovely girl called Dania who is from Oaxaca and at the end of a degree in Internationa Affairs (I think) at UAM: the huge University city in DF. We are supposed to speak a half hour in each language but she is so eager to learn to speak english better that I let her do so for 3/4 of the time today. My brain was about to explode anyway 'cos we were doing about 5 tenses all at once today.
From 4 - 6 we have a cookery class with a Zapotec lady called Serena, We made, or rather watched her make, and then we ate: Mole amarillo with beef on Monday, mole rojo, white beans and chicken yesterday and mole negro (with chocolate)and rice and chicken today. And, of course, home made tortillas. As you may have guessed Oaxaca is the home of mole.
Everyone's very friendly. Mostly americans but there are 2 irish in the cookery class. Mark from Dublin and Mary from Tipperary who won the trip at their college. They are on their way to the pacific coast to help with conservation projects. They both had no spanish at all so have stopped off on their way for 2 weeks to get the basics.
So - nothing very exciting to report. By the time I have a walk downtown and then get back here it's nearly 8. I shower and tidy up and start my emails etc. Oh - and my homework of course:)
More later on in the week xx

Exam time at el Instituto Cultural de Oaxaca

It was my recurring nightmare (about having to go back to school to resit my A levels)come true. A 4 page exam paper in a foreign language. First page was alright but as I progressed it got harder and harder and I was guessing more and more. By the time I had finished it I was shaking. Then, after 3 cups of coffee to steady my nerves, came the oral! The nice man (who was v impressed at my casual use of the word 'consuegra' : Dulce) then declared us finished and put me in Intermediate 1!!!!!
I was so pleased with myself. All those hours spent at my PC had paid off.
We then had an orientation class and met all the other students registering this week. About 8 of us. There was a lady from Chicago sitting me and we arranged to meet up later to go explore the town.
Got caught in the rain and got absolutely soaked. But not as wet as the wedding party who came out of the main church to do their procession around the town accompanied by a brass band complete with euphonium. There were some indigenous ladies outside the church doing a roaring trade in blue plastic capes at 10 pesos (50p) which looked slightly at odds with the very expensive wedding outfits/shoes on the ladies and the men's tuxedos.
Met Belinda again this morning and we went on a, as it turned out, private tour (cos there were only the 2 of us)to a Mezcal still: spirit like tequila made from the maguey cactus by hand. Earliest I have ever drunk hard liquor - they had an 8 year old which was just like a good brandy. Then on to a weaving family's premises and a demonstration of carding and spinning wool and colouring it using natural dyes before weaving it into the most amazing traditional Zapotec rugs. Isaac's father is so famous at his craft that he has been mentioned in quite a few books on master craftsman, including Oliver Sachs' diary of Oaxaca. Next the market (largest in Latin America according to our guide)at Tlacolula which was amazing. Full of colour and smells and sounds and the fabulous costumes of the different indigenous people both selling and buying. As I think I have said before: the state of Oaxaca is the most ethnically complex of all the states of Mexico. Bought some lovely flowers and textiles. Then on to the Zapotec archeological site at Mitla which is unique as it is the only one to have stone mosaics. Dates from the 13th century a.d. three centuries before the Spanish conquest. Then finally to 'El Tule' - officially the largest tree in the world according to the Guinness Book of Records. A Montezuma Cypress with a trunk diameter of 11 metres it's at least 1500 years old.
Enough culture already.
Pics tomorrow.
x

Wi-fi connection now established!

Hello from Oaxaca in the rainy season. Why does the rain follow me wherever I go in the world. At least at this latitude it's warm and in the late afternoon.
Had a lovely, if tiring, two days in DF with Dulce and Fausto. Check out one of the comments under my 'ready for the off' post for an update on first day in Mexico City.
On Thursday we went on a tour to the Basilica de Guadelupe built at the place where the Virgin appeared to Juan Diego. an indigenous Christian convert, in 1531. The Bishop didn't believe him when he told him that the Virgin wanted a church built there until, after more appearances, the Virgin's image was miraculously emblazoned on his cloak and the Bish had to concede.
We then went to Teotihuacan, via an artisan's centre where we drank some pulce and tequila and had craft demonstrations - working with fabulous local stone, obsidian, rose quartz, lapis lazuli and more. Our guide, Miguel, is an anthropologist and was so enthused by the Pyramids. You wouldn't believe how big they are - the photos don't even come close to showing the scale. The Pyramid of the Sun is 65 metres high and the Moon 45. Check out Lonely Planet Guide to Mexico for more details. I wondered why my right bottom cheek was so sore this morning. It was climbing the first part of the Moon - the steps were so high I could only manage four at a time before I had to have a breather. Being 2,400 + metres above sea level: hardly surprising (age had NOTHING to do with it)!
Next post: Oaxaca and my recurring nightmare come true: having to sit an exam.

Ready for the off!

Phew - what a relief - everything, including the kitchen sink, fitted into my trolley bag which, although nearly bursting at the seams only weighs about 15kg. Important that for manhandling on and off buses etc and up stairs - Dulce lives 4 flights up. Does anyone else weigh their luggage by first weighing yourself and then holding the case in your hand and stepping on again? All of you - I hear you mutter :)
So - will be in touch again the first time I can comfortably connect to the internet.
Thanks a million for all your good wishes. Dxx

Retirement 'Do' tonight - great fun

Just back from my retirement party - 17 of us at 'The Dogs' at Ballyskeagh. Great night. Food fab and not too much money squandered on rubbish bets :)
A crowd of us from Smyth Pattersons ran/walked the Lisburn Fun run last night in support of the Motor Neurone Disease Association so it's a wonder we were able to be out so late!
Also had a lovely day last Friday at Richard and Sarah's wedding at Ballydugan Mill. It would have done your heart good to see a couple so happy to be getting wed and so much in love. It was a privilege to have been a part of it.
Well - only another two engagements to go before I head off. Really - this past 5 weeks have been wall to wall partying. I'm not complaining - it's been truly great - I'm going to miss seeing all my wonderful friends for 3 months. But I'll be looking forward to catching up with everyone again come September.
On Tuesday next I'm hoping to take the 5.15am bus from Sprucefield to Dublin Airport. Flying from Dublin to Amsterdam with Aer Lingus and then on with KLM to Mexico City.
I'll be staying with Betta's parents for 3 nights in Colonia Claveria. Dulce's taking me to Teotihuacan, where the huge pyramids of the Sun and the Moon were constructed in the first century AD. Photos, and history lesson of the day, to follow in due course.
On Friday 24th I'm travelling down to Oaxaca City in the south west to enrol in el Instituto Cultural on Saturday morning. Watch this space..........

Only 2 weeks to go!

Hopefully, Aer Lingus pilots notwithstanding, this time in two weeks I'll be flying over the Atlantic from Schipol, Amsterdam to Mexico City. Have started to get the clothes etc laid out in the spare room and am now wondering if the small trolley case I had intended to take will, in fact, be big enough for 3 months' worth of things I can't possibly do without. Don't even ask for an inventory - it would be too embarassing. I will just have to keep reminding myself that there are shops and wonderful  markets in Oaxaca selling everything I could ever need: infinitely cheaper. And then, when I go to stay with DD and Betty in Cordoba, I can just scrounge from them :)

120th weekend at McGrory's, Culdaff

Hi all.
Sorry I've been a little tardy in updating - the weather's been too good :)
Well .... what a weekend we had. Last Friday eighteen of our closest friends and family joined us at McGrory's in Culdaff at the top of the Inishowen Peninsula, Donegal. Despite our concerns about the forecast (we knew at least the bar was going to be dry!), the weather was very kind to us: albeit a tad on the windy side.
Had a drinks reception followed by a very enjoyable dinner on Friday night. And - another surprise!! - a fabulous bespoke birthday cake, organised by Hannah and Rory, made by Colleen: a colleague of Hannah's. (I believe she's just about ready to take orders), Check out the bottle of Fleurie in the pics - and David's hairline.
We then repaired to the aforementioned bar where a traditional session was already in full swing. A good night's craic was had by all.
On Saturday, after McGrory's hearty Irish breakfast, we went our separate ways - but managed to keep meeting each other: mostly on Five Finger Strand where the wind would, and nearly did, have blown you away.
Some went on to Malin Head and beyond. A few of us met up in Ballyliffin Golf Club for 'refreshments' and a spot of lunch. We enjoyed looking out the picture windows at the poor mad golfers in the links (is that the correct term Brendan?) wondering where on earth their balls were going to end up in the gale. The Formula One fans also got a chance to catch up on the qualifying session.
Saturday night we had a few glasses of wine in our Room, 108, with whomever wasn't watching the Munster/Leinster Final (mainly Robin & Rocky) in the bar. Then down for another excellent meal - prepared by chef Ann McGrory and her team. Absent friends - who we missed dreadfully - were duly toasted.
Los Trios kicked off in the bar at 10pm, with Neil McGrory on bass, and very entertaining they were too. Lots of imbibing and dancing ensued (my personal favorites - Sylvie and Noel - who had obviously had been practising) and a fair amount of joining in with the singing (cue Paddy's hoarseness the next morning). Some of the party had to retire early :s but the stalwarts were awarded by Neil with a big bowl of delicious cocktail sausage rolls at around 2 am. A big thanks to Kim for her superb management of the kitty and drinks orders.
And thanks to everybody - for everything. We both had the most marvellous time. What great friends we are blessed to have.