The tale of the two snakes! Well:- on Sunday just after I had done my last post we were sitting in the study talking when David said to me 'get the dogs out of the room!' I thought there was a spider or a cockroach or something but it was a snake - half in and half out of the garden door. Lucy (the maid)was summoned as an authoirty on such occurrences and she promptly said: 'kill it!' Of course DD couldn't so he persuaded it to go outside with the aid of Lucy's window cleaning tool. It was about a meter long and black with green markings on its scales - it might have been a Mexican King Snake - that was the closest I could find on the internet.
Anyway:- they've never had a snake in the house before, to their knowledge, so it was even more of a shock on Monday, as Betty was lying in their bedroom talking on the fone to her Mum, when David encountered another snake in the downstairs hallway which promptly disappeared into said bedroom. Betty had said to me earlier on in the afternoon that she thought she had seen a snake in there but, when she and I went (very carefully) to check, there were a lot of cables and things and she thought she was mistaken.
So dogs were again banished to the back yard, the window cleaning thingy was located and DD managed to trap this snake (not the same one - this one was much smaller and a different colour) in one of his furniture cubes on the top of which he put a mat. He tried, unsuccessfully, to contact the gardener for advice and then attempted to encourage the snake to go into a pillowcase (a la Steve Irwin RIP). Snakey wasn't having any of it and got extremely agressive and actually jumped out of the cube at one stage and curled itself around the handle of the tool. So, poor David had no option but to dispatch it - with some difficulty. Not nice.
The gardener came the next day and checked outside for more but found nothing. There's a river below the garden down a steep slope and he thinks they came from there. It's rainy season and there are quite spectacular thunderstorms most afternoons/evenings (think Roffy).
Needless to say now my bed's comprehensively checked before I get into it at night!
What else. We went out for dinner on Wednesday night to a very good tapas bar and were invited to the opening of the guy's new restaurant - 'La Canita' - last night. It was great! Free wine and tapas from 8pm to after 11pm. The owner lived in Madrid for some years so the tapas are authentically spanish.
Earlier in the day we had Frank, an american friend of DD and Betty's in whose garden bungalow they lived when they first came to Cordoba, for lunch and then DD and I went to the weekly poker game in Frank's house before the restaurant opening. Good fun - the stakes are very low and the dealer chooses what type of poker to play that hand.
We're taking the dogs tomorrow to Frank and Anya's cabin in the mountains near Cosco and will stay the night - looking forward to it.
More on that later......x
Friday, 29 July 2011
Sunday, 24 July 2011
Sunday 24th July (I think)
DD and I spent yesterday and last night in Coscomatepec, which is 24 km north of Cordoba, at the hotel of a business colleague of his. Grand View Rancho Santa Barbara is situated in the foothills of Citlatepetl,(Star Mountain) in the Nahuatl language, with a 360 degree view of the town and surrounding mountains. At 5611 metres high it's the highest mountain/volcano in Mexico {according to Lonely Planet as are rest of descriptions} and the 3rd highest in North America: only Mt McKinley in Alaska and Mt Logan in Canada are higher. It's commonly known as 'El Pico' de Orizaba and can be seen from miles around. DD has a great view of it from el Tec.
The town itself is very pretty: steep cobbled streets, pink church, Zocalo and just a nice feel about it. It's famous for its bread: baked in wood ovens using oak; saddle making and hand rolled cigars: Winston Churchill and de Gaulle are said to have been clients. The main crops seem to be Sugar Cane, Maize and Chayotes - small green squashes which are grown over stakes: much like vines on the terraces of houses and restaurants in Europe. You can see them in my pics.
There were also lots and lots of donkeys, cows, sheep, goats, pigs and fowl everywhere. I haven't seen much livestock in the fields I assume because of the climate being so hot, but in the mountains the pastures go really high up, like in Switzerland, and it's much cooler than farther down so, in Cosco, every house we passed had its quota of piglets, turkeys etc running about - it was lovely.
Here in Cordoba I'm keeping busy - 2/3 hours of study in the mornings (weekdays only!), then a walk somewhere and I'm doing a bit of cooking and helping with the washing etc.
So far I've made a few soups (Mexicans don't half eat a lot of soup! At least once a day), Chili Oil, Lemon and Cinnamon Oil and a new red and white tablecloth. You could spend days in the fabric shops - and there are so many of them.
Talking about food: DD and I ate in a restaurant in Cosco yesterday afternoon. He had beef and I pork (a plate full), garnished with Picaditas: small fried tortillas, one with green sauce and one with red,a few fried potatoes and spring onions, platanos machos (fried banana)and salad. You always also get a dish of pickled vegetables {to soak up the cholesterol!}, tortilla chips and sauces while you're waiting. We had 2 Beers each (me Corona and DD Negro Modela) and the bill came to mx$212 - about £10. That would be dear side for here. Comida Corrida at lunchtime in restaurants and comedors is prob. from mx$35 (£1.80) to mx$70 ($3.50) for soup, tortillas, meat, rice, a simple pudding and a jug of Agua de fruta: water made with fruit puree: pineapple, orange, or mango etc.
Will upload a few more photos now - hasta luego x
The town itself is very pretty: steep cobbled streets, pink church, Zocalo and just a nice feel about it. It's famous for its bread: baked in wood ovens using oak; saddle making and hand rolled cigars: Winston Churchill and de Gaulle are said to have been clients. The main crops seem to be Sugar Cane, Maize and Chayotes - small green squashes which are grown over stakes: much like vines on the terraces of houses and restaurants in Europe. You can see them in my pics.
There were also lots and lots of donkeys, cows, sheep, goats, pigs and fowl everywhere. I haven't seen much livestock in the fields I assume because of the climate being so hot, but in the mountains the pastures go really high up, like in Switzerland, and it's much cooler than farther down so, in Cosco, every house we passed had its quota of piglets, turkeys etc running about - it was lovely.
Here in Cordoba I'm keeping busy - 2/3 hours of study in the mornings (weekdays only!), then a walk somewhere and I'm doing a bit of cooking and helping with the washing etc.
So far I've made a few soups (Mexicans don't half eat a lot of soup! At least once a day), Chili Oil, Lemon and Cinnamon Oil and a new red and white tablecloth. You could spend days in the fabric shops - and there are so many of them.
Talking about food: DD and I ate in a restaurant in Cosco yesterday afternoon. He had beef and I pork (a plate full), garnished with Picaditas: small fried tortillas, one with green sauce and one with red,a few fried potatoes and spring onions, platanos machos (fried banana)and salad. You always also get a dish of pickled vegetables {to soak up the cholesterol!}, tortilla chips and sauces while you're waiting. We had 2 Beers each (me Corona and DD Negro Modela) and the bill came to mx$212 - about £10. That would be dear side for here. Comida Corrida at lunchtime in restaurants and comedors is prob. from mx$35 (£1.80) to mx$70 ($3.50) for soup, tortillas, meat, rice, a simple pudding and a jug of Agua de fruta: water made with fruit puree: pineapple, orange, or mango etc.
Will upload a few more photos now - hasta luego x
Wednesday, 20 July 2011
One month gone already
As I write this it is almost exactly the time, one month ago, when I got out of bed ready to start my adventure.
And what an adventure driving back from Huatulco yesterday was. First of all: the rain damage. Boulders the size of cars lying beside the roads and, in one case, on the road being pushed over the edge by a digger. We were glad we hadn't been trying to get through an hour earlier. The highways have been cut through hillsides leaving quite sheer soil and boulder slopes on on side or the other. Cars coming towards you will flash their lights, or have their hazard warnings on, and you know there is something up ahead. Maybe a boulder or two, maybe a soil slip across the road, a shrub or a small tree or maybe the side of the road has disappeared! We came across one bridge which had collapsed but was shored up enough to let a single file of traffic through. All of the storm drains and rivers and streams were in full spate and a lot of standing water and new lakes on the lower ground.
We made it to the outskirts of Salina Cruz - a refinery city - where there is a brand new toll road we needed to take. But it was closed: a major bridge down. We got back onto the main highway only to be re-directed about a mile further on because there was a crowd of people blocking the road. No point enquiring why - some sort of 'manifestation' as I think it's called here. We drove on ever deteriorating roads right into the refinery port and then into a 'barrio' (like a poor neighbourhood). The alleys were aflood with water and ruts and every time we came to an intersection we had to ask which way. It was pretty hairy and we were very relieved when we rejoined the main highway again.
So - a fair bit of high speed driving - lots of 'topes': speed reducers; and potholes to negotiate. Only got stopped by the Police once - for overtaking a bus on a tope - but luckily (apparently) it was the Federal Police and not the Municipal (or was it State?): who allegedly might have been looking for a fine or two. So, nine hours later, we arrived in Cordoba. Betty and DD had driven from the Pacific Coast to the Gulf of Mexico at the narrowest part of the Americas.
And it was as well we left because Hurrican Dora is effecting the southern Pacific coast just about where we were all the way up to Acapulco and heading north.
Cordoba on the other hand today was 31c and sunny :)
DD and B went back to work this morning. I spent 2 hours+ studying on the patio this morning and then walked into the centre to check out what was new since last time. Forgot to take my camera so will do that tomorrow. Am posting some photos of the house and one dog - the other wouldn't pose - now: mas manana x
And what an adventure driving back from Huatulco yesterday was. First of all: the rain damage. Boulders the size of cars lying beside the roads and, in one case, on the road being pushed over the edge by a digger. We were glad we hadn't been trying to get through an hour earlier. The highways have been cut through hillsides leaving quite sheer soil and boulder slopes on on side or the other. Cars coming towards you will flash their lights, or have their hazard warnings on, and you know there is something up ahead. Maybe a boulder or two, maybe a soil slip across the road, a shrub or a small tree or maybe the side of the road has disappeared! We came across one bridge which had collapsed but was shored up enough to let a single file of traffic through. All of the storm drains and rivers and streams were in full spate and a lot of standing water and new lakes on the lower ground.
We made it to the outskirts of Salina Cruz - a refinery city - where there is a brand new toll road we needed to take. But it was closed: a major bridge down. We got back onto the main highway only to be re-directed about a mile further on because there was a crowd of people blocking the road. No point enquiring why - some sort of 'manifestation' as I think it's called here. We drove on ever deteriorating roads right into the refinery port and then into a 'barrio' (like a poor neighbourhood). The alleys were aflood with water and ruts and every time we came to an intersection we had to ask which way. It was pretty hairy and we were very relieved when we rejoined the main highway again.
So - a fair bit of high speed driving - lots of 'topes': speed reducers; and potholes to negotiate. Only got stopped by the Police once - for overtaking a bus on a tope - but luckily (apparently) it was the Federal Police and not the Municipal (or was it State?): who allegedly might have been looking for a fine or two. So, nine hours later, we arrived in Cordoba. Betty and DD had driven from the Pacific Coast to the Gulf of Mexico at the narrowest part of the Americas.
And it was as well we left because Hurrican Dora is effecting the southern Pacific coast just about where we were all the way up to Acapulco and heading north.
Cordoba on the other hand today was 31c and sunny :)
DD and B went back to work this morning. I spent 2 hours+ studying on the patio this morning and then walked into the centre to check out what was new since last time. Forgot to take my camera so will do that tomorrow. Am posting some photos of the house and one dog - the other wouldn't pose - now: mas manana x
Sunday, 17 July 2011
Sunday - Huatulco
Hi all. It's been a very lazy week here. Found a library downstairs so both David and I have been reading proper books with paper pages intead of our e-readers. Betty arrived on the bus Friday morning to join us. It rained pretty much solidly from Friday afternoon through to this morning. Think torrential rain: floods: villages being evacuated higher up in the Sierra Madre. I have never seen the like of it - and the noise. However today has been gorgeous and we remembered why we had driven so far to come to the Pacific. There are 7 beaches and bays which make up Las Bahias de Huatulco. We are on Playa Chahue so, this afternoon, we visited 3 more: Playa de Maguey, Entraga y Santa Cruz. All of them were as I had envisaged the Pacific beaches to be: palapas (thatched shelters) on jungle fringed, white sanded bays with turquoise sea and lots of exotic birds: pelicans, frigate birds, the ever present zopilotes (black vultures). What I hadn't reckoned on was the number of people on them! People helping you park your car, choose your restaurant, hire a lounger and then the tourists! Mexican mainly cos the schools have just got out. We spent a maximum of 10 minutes on each and then hurried back to Chahue: no palapas, no touts, just white sand, surf, little interesting shells and 2 minutes walk from the condo. Think I'm too used to our beautiful beaches in Ireland - if there are 3 people on them it's 2 too many!
Monday, 11 July 2011
Casa Bella, Sueno del Mar, Bahia Chahue, Huatulco
Buenos noches from the Pacific! It's 10.30pm and 27c. I feel as though I'm really on my hols.
We left Oaxaca at 8.45am and got here at 2.45pm. The road was very good apart from when we were crossing the Sierra Madre Occidental - bit curvy then with sheer precipices at the side of the road and wonderful cactus forests every so often. Lots of animals - black pigs, oxen, cattle, goats, mules, burritos, horses. An iguana crossing the road at one stage, lizards, loads of Zopilotes (black vultures), hundreds of beautiful butterflies. It was a lovely journey.
The Condo is just as we expected. On the 3rd floor of a pirvate development. 2 huge ensuite bedrooms, open plan kitchen, dining room and living room with a terrace overlooking the swimming pools and ocean.
Haven't made it down onto the beach yet - just unpacked and went to the supermarket to stock up.
Drove into the centre of La Crucecita - maybe a mile away - tonight and couldn't believe the buzz. The Zocalo was packed with people walking and talking. Lined with dozens of restaurants and bars and nice craft shops (leaving those for another day - will have to ration myself). Had some good food - a Tlayuda for DD and Enchilladas with chicken and mole negro for me. Of course, every meal seems to come with tortilla chips (as in fried pieces of tortilla)with salsa and green and red sauces. And, of course, a few beers. We then found an open air restaurant/bar on the first floor of an adjacent building with live music and sat up there for a while. I had the most scrummy thing I have had in ages - a Moka Frappucino topped with cream, chocolate sprinkles and a maraschino cherry! A zillion calories I would guess but so delicious. I'm going there every night to work my way through all the flavours.
Well - off to bed. Passed a transparent gecko on the way up the stairs and a scorpion in the carpark. There is a chorus of frogs outside the window (without Paul McCartney)so might need the earplugs.
Will take loads of photos tomorrow.
xx
We left Oaxaca at 8.45am and got here at 2.45pm. The road was very good apart from when we were crossing the Sierra Madre Occidental - bit curvy then with sheer precipices at the side of the road and wonderful cactus forests every so often. Lots of animals - black pigs, oxen, cattle, goats, mules, burritos, horses. An iguana crossing the road at one stage, lizards, loads of Zopilotes (black vultures), hundreds of beautiful butterflies. It was a lovely journey.
The Condo is just as we expected. On the 3rd floor of a pirvate development. 2 huge ensuite bedrooms, open plan kitchen, dining room and living room with a terrace overlooking the swimming pools and ocean.
Haven't made it down onto the beach yet - just unpacked and went to the supermarket to stock up.
Drove into the centre of La Crucecita - maybe a mile away - tonight and couldn't believe the buzz. The Zocalo was packed with people walking and talking. Lined with dozens of restaurants and bars and nice craft shops (leaving those for another day - will have to ration myself). Had some good food - a Tlayuda for DD and Enchilladas with chicken and mole negro for me. Of course, every meal seems to come with tortilla chips (as in fried pieces of tortilla)with salsa and green and red sauces. And, of course, a few beers. We then found an open air restaurant/bar on the first floor of an adjacent building with live music and sat up there for a while. I had the most scrummy thing I have had in ages - a Moka Frappucino topped with cream, chocolate sprinkles and a maraschino cherry! A zillion calories I would guess but so delicious. I'm going there every night to work my way through all the flavours.
Well - off to bed. Passed a transparent gecko on the way up the stairs and a scorpion in the carpark. There is a chorus of frogs outside the window (without Paul McCartney)so might need the earplugs.
Will take loads of photos tomorrow.
xx
Sunday, 10 July 2011
Mexico has just won the Under 17 World Cup - much jubilation
They do like their football here. Much craic in the restaurants and bars tonight.
Well- it's Sunday again and my last night (17th) in Oaxaca. Finished weaving on Thursday and school on Friday (paper to prove it)- two weeks was exactly the right amount of time.
Went to a Guelaguetza Show on Friday evening at the 5* Camino Real Hotel which is in an ex convent. It was a lovely evening. First a buffet featuring Oaxacena dishes like Mole Negro (a black thick sauce with chocolate in it served with,usually,chicken), Mole Rojo with little dumplings made from maize flour, Flautas (tortillas rolled around a meat filling and deep fried), Frijoles (black beans) with Chorizo, lovely salads, local cheeses,rice and salsas and puddings to die for - a whole table just for them.
The show lasted for 2 hours and featured 6 or 7 dances by indigenous people from different parts of Oaxaca state which you would see at Guelaguetza which is held the last two Mondays in July. The word is Zapotec for offering and the festival is a combination of pre-christian rites and the celebration of a Saint's Day in the Catholic Church. Dulce and I were going to come back for it but I decided not to. The Show in the hotel was a lot more comfortable I think: and not so long.
I was going to have a lie in yesterday morning until I felt the bed shake - earthquake - followed by sirens and loudspeaker shouting I know not what! Threw on my jogging suit over my pyjamas, grabbed passport, money, bag and out the door. Then I saw la Senora calmly in the process of making breakfast in the courtyard so I sneaked sheepishly back into my studio. It was a 4.3 quake about half way between Oaxaca and Huatulco. This is an earthquake zone so the locals are well used to them. Not a great way to start a Saturday morning.
DD arrived early yesterday afternoon so we have had a lovely time catching up. We're leaving for Huatulco in the morning so: next time: photos I hope of a blue Pacific Ocean bathed in sunlight. Fingers crossed. x
Well- it's Sunday again and my last night (17th) in Oaxaca. Finished weaving on Thursday and school on Friday (paper to prove it)- two weeks was exactly the right amount of time.
Went to a Guelaguetza Show on Friday evening at the 5* Camino Real Hotel which is in an ex convent. It was a lovely evening. First a buffet featuring Oaxacena dishes like Mole Negro (a black thick sauce with chocolate in it served with,usually,chicken), Mole Rojo with little dumplings made from maize flour, Flautas (tortillas rolled around a meat filling and deep fried), Frijoles (black beans) with Chorizo, lovely salads, local cheeses,rice and salsas and puddings to die for - a whole table just for them.
The show lasted for 2 hours and featured 6 or 7 dances by indigenous people from different parts of Oaxaca state which you would see at Guelaguetza which is held the last two Mondays in July. The word is Zapotec for offering and the festival is a combination of pre-christian rites and the celebration of a Saint's Day in the Catholic Church. Dulce and I were going to come back for it but I decided not to. The Show in the hotel was a lot more comfortable I think: and not so long.
I was going to have a lie in yesterday morning until I felt the bed shake - earthquake - followed by sirens and loudspeaker shouting I know not what! Threw on my jogging suit over my pyjamas, grabbed passport, money, bag and out the door. Then I saw la Senora calmly in the process of making breakfast in the courtyard so I sneaked sheepishly back into my studio. It was a 4.3 quake about half way between Oaxaca and Huatulco. This is an earthquake zone so the locals are well used to them. Not a great way to start a Saturday morning.
DD arrived early yesterday afternoon so we have had a lovely time catching up. We're leaving for Huatulco in the morning so: next time: photos I hope of a blue Pacific Ocean bathed in sunlight. Fingers crossed. x
Tuesday, 5 July 2011
Tejido
Hi. Have just put a few more photos into the album, On Sunday morning I went downtown with some new students who I met at the Institute. We went into what was the Governor's Palace (free entry on a Sunday). Great interactive exhibits. Then for lunch. Monday I had a difficult day in my class - 6 new students - all of whom speak more Spanish than Katie and I (the only 2 left from last week). I was really struggling, especially as Angeles was explaining the Subjunctive tense (which I don't think exists in English)in Spanish. Anyway, cheered up after Dania explained it better to me during Intercambio and even more when I started my weaving class.
Then Kelly and I walked down to the Zocalo at 7pm for a large Michelada with everything. That's a tankard one third full of tomato concasse, chili, salt, lime and ice cubes, rimmed with chili salt, into which you pour your beer (Corona in my case). Comes with a bowl of salted, fresh roasted peanuts and segments of lime. And all for $33 - about £1.75. Hasppy days.
Class was much better today. Much more conversation and getting to know each other - and I realised that I wasn't the only one struggling. Weaving coming on well - very relaxing. I wonder could I make a loom at home?
DD arriving, all being well, on Saturday. Can't wait to see him again:)
Ciao for now x
Then Kelly and I walked down to the Zocalo at 7pm for a large Michelada with everything. That's a tankard one third full of tomato concasse, chili, salt, lime and ice cubes, rimmed with chili salt, into which you pour your beer (Corona in my case). Comes with a bowl of salted, fresh roasted peanuts and segments of lime. And all for $33 - about £1.75. Hasppy days.
Class was much better today. Much more conversation and getting to know each other - and I realised that I wasn't the only one struggling. Weaving coming on well - very relaxing. I wonder could I make a loom at home?
DD arriving, all being well, on Saturday. Can't wait to see him again:)
Ciao for now x
Sunday, 3 July 2011
Lazy Sunday in Oaxaca
Sitting in my studio with a teeny glass of Crema de Maguey, mango flavour. It's mezcal flavoured with fruit and cream - only the tourists buy it - bit like Baileys.
Had a great week by the end of which I was really talking Spanish. Our whole class on Friday was conversation and we chatted - the four of us and our teacher, Angeles, from 9am to pretty much 1pm. It was great! I was so pleased with myself.
My intercambio, Dania, arrived unexpectedly at las Mariposas on Friday afternoon and offered to take me downtown and show me some places. She had seen that there was a wedding at Santo Domingo and thought I might be interested, which of course I was. She took me to La Basilica de la Soledad (the patron saint of Oaxaca) and then to a market. Wasn't the one I thought we were going to. Turned out to be Mercado Central de Abastos - literally on the wrong side of the tracks. We wandered through, me warily, this enormous market - and I mean: enormous. Narrow aisles, loads of people, me with my hand on my purse in my pocket tied to my belt. Everything you could ever need: fruit, bread, vegetables, cheese, meat, shoes, hats, cooking utensils, You name it, it was there, alive or dead: different section for each. The colours and the smells were amazing. Bought some Oaxacan cheese ( like cheese strings?)and found the reboza (shawl) I was looking for. One similar to what the peasant women wear wrapped round their heads underneath the canastas (baskets) they carry on their heads. Or they'll wrap them diagonally around themselves and carry their babies or children in a sling. Pure cotton and hand woven it was 45pesos - about £3. Put them in the pretty portable bag my friend Lynn had given me which I put over my shoulder. We then went off to 'the hat department'.
Turned down an narrow aisle and I saw a man with a handcart coming towards us so I stepped aside to let him past. A tall man then came past from behind us and said 'pase,pase' to Dania who, up until then, had always been walking behind me and sort of ushered her past me. Then, all of a sudden, these 4 or 5 men appeared and started to, very gently, walk round around me, bumping me.I knew one of two things was happening so used my elbows and some anglosaxon expletives to get clear of them. Poor Dania wasn't worth tuppence halfpenny. She kept saying 'my mother will kill me when she finds out I've brought you to a place like this'! She had never ever had any problem there before but then she is Mexican. Anyway, I was fine - had the hand on the purse and no other bag with me except the thin shopper. And then we discovered that they had slashed the shopper with a blade. How lucky was I that they didn't get away with my cheese - or my reboza :s
Anyway - we got out of there pretty smartish and poor Dania kept looking behind her all the way to the centre of town.
On to safer things. Took another tour yesterday to San Bartolo where they make the distinctive barro negro - burnished black pottery. Then on to an alebrije workshop which was fascinating. This, and the weaving, are major Zapotec crafts, using natural dyes from plants, fruits and insects and incorporating the creatures from the zapotec calendar and the symbols which pre date writing eg: for mountains, cycle of life, rivers, etc. The alibrijes range in size from the huge ones carved from a single piece of copal wood and allowed to dry out for at least a year before painting to the tiny ones, no bigger that a 5p piece. They can also have loads of pieces which remove for packing. Think porcupine or cactus plant with flowers, or insects.
Then had a short stop at a market selling articles woven on a back strap loom (tejido)- shopping opportunities galore in this state. All you girlies would love it! And everything's sooooo cheap.
OK - off for a shower and some dinner. Then homework - remember that?
More soon x
Had a great week by the end of which I was really talking Spanish. Our whole class on Friday was conversation and we chatted - the four of us and our teacher, Angeles, from 9am to pretty much 1pm. It was great! I was so pleased with myself.
My intercambio, Dania, arrived unexpectedly at las Mariposas on Friday afternoon and offered to take me downtown and show me some places. She had seen that there was a wedding at Santo Domingo and thought I might be interested, which of course I was. She took me to La Basilica de la Soledad (the patron saint of Oaxaca) and then to a market. Wasn't the one I thought we were going to. Turned out to be Mercado Central de Abastos - literally on the wrong side of the tracks. We wandered through, me warily, this enormous market - and I mean: enormous. Narrow aisles, loads of people, me with my hand on my purse in my pocket tied to my belt. Everything you could ever need: fruit, bread, vegetables, cheese, meat, shoes, hats, cooking utensils, You name it, it was there, alive or dead: different section for each. The colours and the smells were amazing. Bought some Oaxacan cheese ( like cheese strings?)and found the reboza (shawl) I was looking for. One similar to what the peasant women wear wrapped round their heads underneath the canastas (baskets) they carry on their heads. Or they'll wrap them diagonally around themselves and carry their babies or children in a sling. Pure cotton and hand woven it was 45pesos - about £3. Put them in the pretty portable bag my friend Lynn had given me which I put over my shoulder. We then went off to 'the hat department'.
Turned down an narrow aisle and I saw a man with a handcart coming towards us so I stepped aside to let him past. A tall man then came past from behind us and said 'pase,pase' to Dania who, up until then, had always been walking behind me and sort of ushered her past me. Then, all of a sudden, these 4 or 5 men appeared and started to, very gently, walk round around me, bumping me.I knew one of two things was happening so used my elbows and some anglosaxon expletives to get clear of them. Poor Dania wasn't worth tuppence halfpenny. She kept saying 'my mother will kill me when she finds out I've brought you to a place like this'! She had never ever had any problem there before but then she is Mexican. Anyway, I was fine - had the hand on the purse and no other bag with me except the thin shopper. And then we discovered that they had slashed the shopper with a blade. How lucky was I that they didn't get away with my cheese - or my reboza :s
Anyway - we got out of there pretty smartish and poor Dania kept looking behind her all the way to the centre of town.
On to safer things. Took another tour yesterday to San Bartolo where they make the distinctive barro negro - burnished black pottery. Then on to an alebrije workshop which was fascinating. This, and the weaving, are major Zapotec crafts, using natural dyes from plants, fruits and insects and incorporating the creatures from the zapotec calendar and the symbols which pre date writing eg: for mountains, cycle of life, rivers, etc. The alibrijes range in size from the huge ones carved from a single piece of copal wood and allowed to dry out for at least a year before painting to the tiny ones, no bigger that a 5p piece. They can also have loads of pieces which remove for packing. Think porcupine or cactus plant with flowers, or insects.
Then had a short stop at a market selling articles woven on a back strap loom (tejido)- shopping opportunities galore in this state. All you girlies would love it! And everything's sooooo cheap.
OK - off for a shower and some dinner. Then homework - remember that?
More soon x
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